Table at Bricco: A Review
I hadn’t realized that Bricco’s butcher shop, Olewine’s, had been closed for a year — oops. Luckily for me, however, I was invited to attend a media preview dinner in that space this past Saturday — which is now known as Table at Bricco, a private dining room affording Chef Jason Viscount an opportunity to play with prix fixe menus and to go beyond the limits of the larger scale restaurant.
The space is cozy, with a long table seating just 14 at its center. It’s own private entrance is on Chestnut Street (or, a Bricco employee will kindly lead you through Bricco’s kitchen to the space if you – like me – didn’t pay proper attention). The opposite wall from the entrance is decorated with wooden wine crates and an enclosed vertical wine display. Peek between bottles, and you’ll see part of the restaurant’s kitchen.
Chef Viscount said he sees the space as ideal for specialty dinners, like craft beer pairing dinners and tequila dinners, tapas and BYOB events, as well as privately booked events and dinners.
To entice us, Saturday’s dinner was a multi-course prix fixe dinner and wine tasting. Our wine guide was Todd Hopwood, territory manager for Terlato Wines, which is based out of Chicago. Todd was excellent company on our food and wine journey, generous both with his selections and knowledge.
We started with a prosciutto tasting. Yes.
Speck dell’ alto adige, Laquercia americano prosciutto and Jamon Serrano by Fermin. Paired with a delightful Bollinger Special Cuvee Non-Vintage Brut.
Course two match a Sokol Blosser 2012 Pinot Gris Willamette Valley with charred asparagus, coffee, cured egg and bone marrow vinaigrette. This may have been one of my favorite courses.
Next, we indulged in a surprisingly light goat cheese tortelloni with dried orange, fennel pollen and spring garlic. This was paired with a lovely white: Chimney Rock 2010 Elevage Blanc, Napa Valley.
The one I neglected to Instagram – with good reason, I ate it too quickly. New Bedford scallops, Anson Mills polenta, butter peas and red mustard greens. We oohed and aahed from first bite. This called for just the right Chardonnay, an outstanding Gaja 2011 Gaia & Rey Chardonnay, Piedmont. Just don’t ask how we got it or how you can get it again.
An intermezzo of sorts, we transitioned our wines with a hint of pink. Our M. Chapoutier 2013 Cotes-du-Rhone Belleruche Rose is said to cleanse the sins of the past — pass the bottle! It was delightful with chicken liver mousse, red wine and strawberry mustard.
Our series of “entrees” began with Chesapeake stripe bass, roasted sunchokes, stinging nettles and morrel brodo. This was paired with a 2008 Pinot Noir from the Terlato Family Vineyards, Russian River.
Next was one rather adventurous: Pig Foot “Milanese,” pickled radish, watercress and tarragon aioli. With this, we sipped Cunsumano 2012 NERO D’AVOLA, Sicily. Todd said, “The wine pairs nicely with the souped-up chicken nugget,” which was how Chef Viscount’s wife — initially apprehensive — had described the Pig Foot Milanese.
The grand finale (pre-dessert, anyway) was outstanding: Snake River Farms Wagyu strip loin, fava beans, spring onion, romanesco and black truffle sauce. Just wow. This was served with Il Poggione 2008 Brunello di Montalcino and a bonus wine that Todd provided, which naturally I did not even think to record. It was enjoyable to sample from each, but his first wine suggestion was most on the mark, in my opinion.
For dessert, we hefted ourselves from the bar-height table outside and next door to Ciao!, Bricco’s on-site bakery, for a wonderful array of miniature desserts, none of which I photographed. Here, Todd prepared three additional dessert wines to sample, but we simply had one flute of blush sparkling wine and an espresso (and a plate of desserts) and chose wisely to call it a night.
We enjoyed every ounce of this incredible dinner, as well as the fine company of our fellow guests. We even made some new friends.
Stay tuned for specialty dinners, where you can buy your seat for a night of incredible dining, by via Table at Bricco’s Facebook page.
COMING SOON: A special SaraBozich.com giveaway for Table at Bricco.